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The "Waterfall Gardens" as Heritage


Dr David Jones argues the case for the Botanic Gardens 





The cultural landscape of George Town, Penang, Malaysia, embraces the historic enclave of George Town as well as a range of other significant colonial vestiges adjacent to the entrépôt.  Many of these landscapes cannot be isolated from the énclave as they are integral to and part of its cultural mosaic and character.  Perhaps the most important are the Penang Hill hill-station landscape and the ‘Waterfall' Botanic Gardens.  The latter is an under-valued ‘garden of the empire'- a garden that significantly underpinned the development and historical and botanical stature of the Singapore Botanic Gardens.

This paper reviews the cultural significance of colonial botanic gardens as they were established around the world during the scientific explosion of the late 1800s.  It addresses their position within World Heritage listings, and considers the role, significance and importance of the ‘Waterfall' Botanic Gardens within this context, and within the concept of ‘cultural landscapes'.


Tanjong Penaigre


IT IS INCORRECTLY PERCEIVED THAT  the Singapore Gardens, given its association with Singapore and Raffles, was the first botanic or economic botanic gardens in the Straits Settlements.  Instead, that is Penang's contribution.  There were two botanic gardens established on Pulau Pinang prior to the establishment of the present Garden in the Waterfall River (Sungai Ayer Terjun) valley.  Each was purposefully created to cultivate both productive crop plants and trees, as well as select aesthetic and 'wayside trees'.

George Town was established on Pulau Pinang (Penang Island), in the Straits of Melaka (Malacca), on August 10, 1786, by Captain Francis Light, naming the island the Prince of Wales Island.  The name Penang derives from the Tanjong Penaigre Cape, upon which George Town was situated, after the hardy ironwood Penaga (Mesua ferrea) that were growing on the site.  The settlement was a dream for Light and a business opportunity for his partner, James Scott.  The settlement enabled the East India Company to establish a strategic base to challenge the Dutch spice trade and maritime supremacy in the Straits.

To explore the spice market the Company appointed Christopher Smith (d. 1806) as Botanist to Penang in 1794 to establish the spice gardens on Pulau Pinang under Lieutenant Governor Sir George Leith.  Smith, originally trained at Kew Gardens, planted a small garden of "20 orlongs" (10.5 ha) in 1794 in the middle Ayer Itam valley and a larger garden, of "300 orlongs" (158 ha), at "Sungei Cloan" ( sic ;   Sungai Keluang);  both on Pulau Pinang.  The exact location of both Gardens is unclear.  In 1796 Smith was sent to the Moluccas, to serve as Superintendent of their Botanic Gardens, to collect specimens of nutmeg and clove for planting in the Penang Gardens.

By 1800 there were some 1,300 plants in these two Gardens, with Sungai Keluang now predominantly growing pepper plants.  The ship 'Amboyna', that arrived that year from Ambon, provided a further 15,000 clove and 1,500 nutmeg trees together with Canary Nuts (Canarium commune) and Sugar Palms (Arenga pinnata, syn. A saccharifera).  The size of this undertaking prompted the enlargement of the Ayer Itam gardens and Residency grounds and the return to George Town by Smith to supervise this enterprise rather than collecting specimens in the region for the Company.  By 1802 Smith reported that there were 19,000 nutmeg and 6,250 clove trees under his supervision with a collection of some 33,000 "spice plants," and 25,026 nutmeg trees.  The Gardens supported, in the 1804-05 financial year, 80 coolies and a operational budget of $11,909.

Nutmeg and clove

William Hunter (1755-1812) records the existence of these Gardens, and many of its plantings, in his "Outline of a Flora of Prince of Wales Island" in c.1803.  Hunter, Surgeon to the East India Company, and a keen naturalist, prepared this manuscript after an extensive visit to George Town, including "the Hon'ble Company's spice plantations ... [at] Ayer Hitam ... and Soongey Clooan [sic]," for which the latter had some 3,000 black pepper (Piper nigrum) vines growing on pole structures made from "Munkoodu" (Morinda citrifolia) and "Dudup" (Erythrina corallodendron) trees.  Included in these Gardens were teak (Tectona grandis), Cinnamon, the first flowing Mangosteen (Garcina mangostana), Bixa orelleana, Dillenai secunda, Artabotrys odoratissima, and Coleus scuellarioides. 

Captain James Low in 1836 described the Gardens during this period as follows:

... embracing one hundred and thirty acres of land, lying on the slopes which skirt the base of the hill near Amie's Mills, a romantic spot and well watered by a running stream now called Ayer Putih.  This plantation, in some respects a mere nursery, contained in the above year [1802] the number of 19,628 nutmeg plants, varying from one up to four years old, 3,460 being four years of age.  There were also 6,259 clove trees, of which 669 were above six, and under seven years old.

This description points to the Ayer Itam Gardens being on the north side of Jalan Ayer Itam near the present Hye Keat Estate and Reservoir Gardens.

Smith returned to George Town in 1805 to be appointed Superintendent of the Botanic Gardens (1805-06), accompanied by 71,266 nutmeg and 55,263 clove plants together with additional Canary Nut and Sugar Palm specimens.  George Town had recently been elevated to the status of India's fourth Presidency, and Lieutenant-Governor Leith had been succeeded in 1803 by the reckless Colonel Robert T. Farquhar.  Smith died unexpectedly in George Town soon after his return, and Farquhar sold the Garden's contents at 12 days' notice for $9,656.  Most of the specimens were removed and replanted elsewhere by various purchasers.

Between 1806 to 1822 the settlement possessed no Gardens.  Following Raffles' insistence to the then Governor of Penang, William Edward Phillips, the second Gardens was established in 1822.  Raffles' interest in this endeavour was perhaps also prompted by his residency in George Town as Secretary to the Prince of Wales Government between 1805 to 1810, and the botanical discoveries on the Island by East India Company botanist William Jack (1795-1822) that were communicated to both him and his friend, Wallich.  Wallich recommended the appointment of Penang Free School Headmaster and amateur botanist, George Porter, on a salary of $100, to manage these Gardens.  Porter, formerly a member of the Calcutta Gardens staff, had accompanied Wallich to Singapore in 1822.  Wallich had named a dwarf Dracena, Dracena porteri, after Porter.  While Porter accepted the position of Superintendent he was nominally in charge under a local judge, a Mr. Leycester, who was appointed Curator.  These Gardens were also sited in the Ayer Itam valley;  possibly on the same government land reserve.

In 1826 the settlements of Penang, Malacca and Singapore were incorporated into the Straits Settlements colony.  The administration of this colony remained initially in George Town before shifting to Singapore in 1832.



Sold for 1250 rupees

The Gardens were tended until the then Governor, Murchison, sold them for 1,250 rupees in 1834 believing that they were not producing adequate vegetables to supply the Residency kitchens.  But the reason is more likely to be due to Straits Settlements cost-cutting measures executed by the Governor-General, Lord George Bentinck.  With its sale, Porter apparently returned to his former position as Headmaster.  In 1867 the colony was transferred from Indian jurisdiction to the Colonial Office in Singapore.

In mid-1884 Charles Curtis accepted the position of Assistant Superintendent of Forests and Gardens, Penang District, under the Straits Settlements administration, and served in this position until 1903.  The appointment "was through the recommendation of Kew" Gardens on the basis of his "botanical activities."

Curtis was placed in charge of the Penang region of the Forest Department, which included the 'Waterfall Gardens', together with some 3,575 ha of Forest Reserves in late 1884.  Between 1885 to 1903 he was largely responsible for these reserves.  Although changes in both areas and administrative entities occurred over this time the 'Waterfall Gardens' was his chief interest and passion.  The Forest Reserves included areas reserved for recreational, fuel, forestry harvesting and protection purposes.  Most were on Pulau Pinang.  These were broken into three categories:  'recreational reserves'  (Boetong, Pulau Jerejak, and in part 'The Highlands'), "fuel reserves" (NW Reserves and Pulau Jerejak) and "protection Reserves" (Ghinting, Penara, 'The Highlands', Main Ridge, Laksamana, and Feringgy). 

Curtis's  competency is exhibited in his 1892 Annual Report that includes 'A list of the more important Plants and Trees flowered in the Botanic Gardens, Penang, 1892,' that provides an extensive review of the flowering species in the Gardens' collection.  An exhaustive compilation that precedes Ridley's published surveys of Malay Peninsula flora.  Two years later he published an "A Extensive Catalogue of Flowering Plants and Ferns Found Growing Wild in the island of Penang" in the Journal of the Straits Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society.  Containing 1,971 species of 793 genera and 129 natural order, it is a significant record of Malaysian flora (Curtis 1894a:  67-163;  1893: 15-18;  1894b: 10).

The Gardens, as distinct from the Forest Reserves, proved Curtis' passion.  This was a significant period for the development of the Gardens.  Curtis was presented with a tropical valley, a senescent nutmeg plantation with associated structures, and a prominent location on the trail to and at the foot of the 'Great Waterfall'.  While an avid and acknowledged botanist and plant collector he proved himself to be a creative landscape designer in crafting the design and development of these Gardens.  The latter is an aspect overlooked to date, and considered in this article.  Curtis remained in the position until Walter Fox (1858-1934) succeeded him. 


Experimental Gardens

 
Under Curtis three 'Experimental Gardens' were established, including the 'Waterfall Nursery Gardens' (580 m) that was developed into the Botanic Gardens, the 'Top Hill Nursery' (777 m) later renamed the 'Government Bungalow Garden', and the ‘plains nursery,' later comprising the Government Residency.  Located at 579 m, with an average annual rainfall in the 1890s of 381 cm, the site of the Botanic Gardens embraces over 29 ha, comprising a significant middle portion, of the Waterfall River valley below the actual Falls.  The heavy rainfall often resulted in management problems, and landslips in the "steepest part of the grounds."

The third Botanic Gardens was eventually sited in the Waterfall River valley on land acquired by the colonial government in 1884-85 for this purpose.  Curtis records that much of this land was owned by a Mr Hogan.  The flatter portions of the Gardens' site provided for nutmeg plantations.  Joliffe's 'Nutmeg Plantation - Pinang' (c.1850) features extensive plantations in this valley with the Waterfall in the background.  Edward Hodges Cree (1814-1901) painted a scene, including swimmers, in May 1845, where the "... stream tumbles down 30 to 40 feet [9-12 m] amongst rocks and trees in a narrow glen-wooded with thick jungle.  There is a pretty peep over the plain, town and harbour to the opposite shore of Kedah.  A great quantity of sensitive plant covers the ground and there are fine nutmeg plantations."  His watercolour depicts part of the Waterfall River ravine and cascades, most likely in the middle reaches of the present Gardens, flanked by nutmeg trees.

 "Happy Hour" for monkeys  - Photo by Tan Joo Beng
Botanical Gardens    

The origins of Curtis' ideas as to the landscape design and laying out of the Gardens is unclear.  His associations with James Veitch & Sons ensured a keen botanical knowledge and sense of inquiry, and his travels throughout Asia and the Indian Ocean exposed him to other recently created botanic or experimental gardens. .

His crafting of the Gardens and his writings about its development display, however, a keen sense of design and aesthetic considerations.  This was later recognised by some of his colleagues and supervisors following his retirement, but is evident in his articulation of a design vision for the Gardens upon his arrival in George Town.  This conclusion is reinforced in the execution of these ideas.  In particular, his care to capture and frame views around the Gardens and to the Waterfall, the desire to create a carriage circuit to enable recreational journeys through the Gardens, his use of locally quarried white granite as much as possible in structures and walling, and in his clear intent to present plants in associative groups while permitting the tropical rainforest to intrude within the Gardens rather than simply edging the grounds.
 
Newly appointed Superintendent Fox reflected in 1904 that Curtis' administration was one of important developments in Penang:

... In Curtis's retirement the Government loses an able conscientious and hardworking officer.  It falls to the lot of few men on their retirement to leave their life's work in so visible and concrete a form.  Eighteen years ago the site of the present beautiful Gardens was practically a waste ground.  It is now the pride of the Colony and the admiration of all who visits it.

Director of the Singapore Botanic Gardens, Cantley, wrote of the Penang Botanic Gardens, in 1885, that they:

... rival those of Singapore in some respects, owing chiefly to the scope which a command of temperature and climate gives them.

   In addition to its general usefulness, the Waterfall Garden acts as the emporium of all plants arriving for Penang and Province Wellesley, and in a great measure for the Native States.  In the latter capability, its utility is only becoming known, and I think it has a future to which the Singaporean Gardens cannot aspire.


Ridley equally, in 1910, recorded that "Mr Curtis was a man full of energy and skill as a landscape gardener and was not to be daunted by difficulties."  An obituary to Curtis in The Gardens' Bulletin, prepared by Ridley, records:  "From the first, however, some ornamental gardening was carried out, and it soon developed into a garden of great beauty, in its naturally beautiful setting."


A World Heritage Nomination

While the significance of the extant colonial enclave of George Town is the central core of considerations and discussions at this conference, I would venture the following recommendations and thoughts as conclusions for this paper.

In the first instance the built fabric and cultural continuity evidence and history of George Town is not in dispute.  Rather, this is the foundation upon which much of the Acheh Street, Armenian Street, Kapitan Keling Mosque Road, and Little India Historic Enclave Action Plan (1997) was predicated and developed within the ambit of.  But the colonial settlement of George Town represents a cultural landscape and not simply a ‘township'.  It was a colonial settlement dependent upon a rich and diverse melting pot of cultures and architectures and exchanges; it was also strongly dependent upon its port and entrépôt role, and influenced by its island location. 

But the settlement cannot be divorced from its direct cultural links to the Penang ‘Waterfall' Gardens and the Penang Hill.  The former provided the reliable water source for the settlement but also facilitated the horticultural and botanical advancement and standing of the settlement.  It also provided a significant social and recreational venue within the cultural life of the settlement.  In the same instance, Penang Hill provided an outpost venue for colonial administration and was an indirect contributor and participant in the colonial horticultural and botanical advancement of the settlement.

 The two places are therefore integral to, subservient to, and part of the immediate cultural landscape of George Town.  They existed with, were directly created as a consequence of, and synergistically grew with the settlement, and still today are integral parts of the George Town cultural landscape.  They cannot and should not be divorced from a definition of the George Town cultural landscape.  They would provide additional contributory weight to any world heritage nomination for George Town as they are unique associative and contributive pieces of its cultural landscape assemblage, and comparable pieces not contained within any other nomination and listing to date.  It would be the first time that specifically a botanic garden - as distinct from a series of gardens and designed landscapes - is included in a nomination, whereas ‘hill-stations' and hill-townships are more commonly recognised in several European listings. 

Further, in several recent World Heritage nominations, assemblages of sites - irrespective of distance and temporal continuity - have been adopted and are in discussion stages.  The proposal for a World Heritage nomination of convict serial sites in Australia provides a case in point (Pearson 2000), as is also the listed Classical Gardens of Suzhou (1997/2000) in China.

For these reasons I would argue for consideration of the Gardens and the Hill within a possible World Heritage nomination for George Town. #


Extracts from a paper read at The Penang Story International Conference 2002 held in Penang. Readers can access the paper at the website of The Penang Story. Bibliographical references have been omitted.

Colonial Botanic Gardens and World Heritage: the significance of the Penang ‘Waterfall' Botanic Gardens

Dr David Jones
Associate Dean (Academic), School of Architecture, Landscape Architecture & Urban Design, Adelaide University Colonial
Email david.jones@adelaide.edu.au


The Penang Story is a project organised by the Penang Heritage Trust in collaboration with Star Publications with the aim of assisting Penang and Malacca's joint listing in the UN Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisations's World Heritage list. The project is sponsored by the Japan Foundation, ABN-AMRO Bank and the Penang Government with the City Bayview as the official hotel.  The Penang Story tells of the peoples of  Penang and can be found at www.penangstory.net

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The Penang File Issue 25