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Book  Review

Penang button   Brickfields

where I grew up


BALAN MOSES nurses a Penangite devotion to Brickfields where he grew up. His book “Brickfields: A place, a time, a memory” is a loving collection of bits and pieces of that district, which started life as an “Indian” settlement made up of  Ceylon Tamils. 

School began with a trishaw ride in 1961 to St Mary’s Kindergarten, a box-shaped wooden building on concrete stilts, with its swings and slides; to the Brickfields Primary School, with 10 cents for pocket  money for ice cream, ice balls, winning money when the “tikam man” came, and stealing mee at the tuckshop which cost 5 cents per bowl, and remembering the teacher Mr Ng who bicycled to school, being pinched as a punishment, ice cream and iceballs. Then the Vivekananda Secondary School where the Baratha Natyam dance was taught, and friends for life were made. Also remembering the buses of wood and glass waiting to take the girls to the Senior Methodist Girls School. 

Games included kite wars, where top-class glass string controlled kites swooped down on the enemy, slicing through their inferior lines and sent them waltzing down to the ground in defeat, with the kids chasing after them to claim the abandoned warrior. Moses doesn’t tell us but the kite warriors must have used Size 40 thread as we kids in Penang did. There was football in the grounds of The Zion Lutheran Cathedral; and badminton at the Brickfields Post Office. They also played  “catching”, and a game called  “gng gng”. 

We learn that in the 1960s the civil service (customs, immigration, railway and telecoms - Moses must have meant the telephone service - lived in The Hundred Quarters and paid their maids, usually the wives of municipal workers from the “coolie lines”, workers in the KL Sanitary Board, $10 a month. Strange to say, the maids dressed in blouses and sarongs and doubled as sharp-eyed watchers over the children of the neighbourhood. They cooked  with firewood, then charcoal, then kerosene stoves and, when gas came, gas stoves.

Itinerant hawkers brought Chinese, Malay and Indian food to their doorstep. There was char koay tiau, mee and the usual delights, as well as ice champor which to the delight of the author he was to find also in Penang, along Penang Road; shopping was done with the mobile supermarkets on bicycles which probed the streets.

Men on bicycles, who doubled as masseurs, sold gingerly and coconut oil, ghee as well as omum water for stomach ailments. And mother bought ghee to make mysore  pak or halwa, titbits  for which she was well known.
 
Ottu kedai - hole in the wall stalls - sold bananas, betel leaves, areca nuts, sweets , soap, hair dyes, combs and knick-knacks and served as centres of local gossip. When one grew up one read Beano and Dandy and Cisco Kid. The barber gave you a coconut shell haircut whether you liked it or not. And then you were old enough to get to know the Lido Theatre, the only place of entertainment, showing Tamil movies; and the unforgettable visit by the South Indian icon, Sivaji Ganesan; gang fights with gangster chiefs called Jungle Insect and Hercules ruling the area; the toddy shops, lively information centres, where iguanas, snakes and wild boar meat (popular after a drinking session) were exotic offerings in addition to ready made meals, and where boisterious fights took place.

Brickfields must have been very religious. Apart from father’s Zion Lutheran Cathedral, built in 1924,  there were the Our Lady of Fatima Church, the St Mary’s Orthodox Syrian Cathedral. The Sri Kandasamy Temple and  The Three Teachings Temple co-existed with Brickfield’s oldest landmark, the Maha Vihara Temple where the country’s biggest Wesak Day celebrations were held.

With a historyof bullock carts it was inevitable that Brickfields also had a Jalan Kandang Kerbau though, unlike Penang’s Chulia Street with its shops, it was a dhoby centre. The saddest thing about this story of love is that “Brickfields” has disappeared, wiped out by an administrative decision. But they still call it “Brickfields” all the same, just as Penang  stubbornly remembers Jalan Ramanathan is Scott Road, and that Jalan CHeong Fatt Tze remains Hong Kong Street.# 


Lim Kean Chye

Book reviewed

Brickfields - A place, a time, a memory
by Balan Moses
Cetakrapi  2007


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10460 Penang
Tel: 04 228 4140 Fax 04 226 4676
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INDEX

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Index page     Bangsawan      Batangkali again    Batik exhibition    Book review      Cycling      Despised Asli     First 30 days          

Food guide
    In search of Gold (7)       Ismail Hashim       Letter from Pulau Tikus        Ponggal        Tan Kai Shouan   

Terrorist rap! - poem    Visiting  Tanjong

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The Penang File Issue  64