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People
Edelweiss |
EDELWEISS,
the only coffee house/restaurant in town with a Swiss name, is in a
restored heritage building in Armenian Street, right in the heart of
old George Town. This is the street where the Armenian businessmen
from Isfahan once lived. The unchanging and unchanged Chinese names of
the area mark its ancient history :- P'ar Tang Kay (copper smiths street
- Malay brazier's shops) - a section of Armenian Street, and that section
after the Yeap Kongsi, Pun T'au Kong Hang (The Duke of the Earth
lane). And Acheen Street with its stone cutters (P'ar Cheo Kay)
and blacksmiths (P'ar T'i Kay). The ancient Malay designed Mosque
reminds us of the deep historic ties with the thriving kingdom of
Acheh across the sea, and flourishing pepper trade.
A few doors away is the Cheah Kongsi (founded 1820) whose building is one of the oldest in George Town dating from 1870 and, nearer still, almost next door, is the "Swatow Lodging House," meaning a lodging house for Teochews, one of many early hostels that housed the "sinkeh", the newcomers, from China. A closer neighbour is The Red Pinang Culture House at No 18. A member of 
the family of one Goh, whose dwelling it once was, told the Sin Chew
newspaper that Sun Yat Sen sought refuge at No 18 after appearing at
the Cheah Kongsi next door. Right opposite is one of the three
entrances to the Khoo Kongsi building (now closed because one entrance
makes it easier for the collection of entrance fees)The owner of this beautifully restored building is Teresa Capol, once council member of the Penang Heritage Trust and a member of the Tourist Guides Association and 14 years in the tour business. Inspired by a vision of the beauty of old George Town, she bought this abandoned 19th century house six years ago. She and her husband spent four patient years lovingly restoring the building, using local material like granite slabs and terra cotta tiles, all salvaged from old shop houses that were being demolished or renovated. When she first |
explored the old
building there was no dividing screen in the hall. A wall at the end
of the hall separated it from the air well, which suggested that the building
had been used as an office. The air well was left alone, a decision
which proved to be wise because it has proved popular with visitors.
The undamaged windows and doors, with their auspicious writing, were retained.
One side proclaims "Success" and the other says "Welcome Good Fortune".
Most doors along this street are carved with the same monotonous symbols of wealth
and riches, signalling that the street was once the home of well to
do merchants. An
old photo suggested that the last occupant was in the import/export
business.
Why "Edelweiss"? Because it is Teresa's favourite Swiss
flower. Teresa's Swiss husband managed to locate an old
stone maker and had him engrave the flower on the granite slabs
just outside the door, a little touch which adds to the piquancy
of the place. The carved flower is also to be found in the air well
inside. Teresa, who is from Kuala Lumpur, says "There was little on the city in our guide course. I had to pick up its history as we went along, sifting gossip from reality." She was so fascinated by the old streets and buildings that she included heritage sites on her tours. She promoted projects for schools in co-operation with the Heritage Trust and Janet Pillai, well-known for her passion for teaching children their history and heritage. But the kids had to sit by the roadside for their snacks. They and the tourists alike needed some place where they could escape from the hot sun and also find a clean toilet. Teresa thought that a coffee house would be just the solution. Edelweiss came into being. Edelweiss also solved the problem of a house, as she says, "squeezed for space," with a husband quietly protesting on the danger of ousted by a plethora of ancient things. As her interest in the history of Penang grew, Teresa collected antiques with her savings. By antiques, Teresa means old things that caught her fancy or stirred childhood memories such as the old water filter, just like the one she used to clean |
| when a child of
eight on the rubber estate where her father worked. She has collected
a few of them. Even a rombie, an old Indonesian wooden tub for storing
rice, is in her collection; so also are sireh boxes and dozens of things
long forgotten.. In the collection are a few red "Thunderbolt" baby cars, like the one Teresa "drove" at imagined high speeds when a child. Her collection is stored upstairs. Downstairs an ancient tea maker sits on the Bar counter. Marble top tables were saved from destruction for RM200 each and discarded and broken chairs bought from old coffee shops for RM20 each. Then there are the baskets large and small; siar nar of rattan (Teochew), large ones used for conveying wedding presents and the smaller Hokkien ones of lacquer for smaller gifts like muar guay presents given when the baby is a month old . Teresa can't resist old photos and has a formidable collection. There are even old wedding photos of people dressed in the Baba fashion of their day, family photos, portraits, photos coloured as was the fashion of those days, even funeral photos which speak of what was de rigour in those days. If the collection is haphazard it is because Teresa did not plan a collection but just bought what caught her fancy. Teresa's husband has also become a collector. Behind the Bar is a carved piece said to be from an old palace in Jogjakarta. In the hall is a great historic mirror which was discarded by the uncaring new owners of the E & O Hotel. Hanging on the wall isan old railway clock from Italy. Rivalling it is a great working tower clock from old German church.. 
The husband it was who designed the strange lamps hanging from the
ceiling - one of the attractions of "Edelweiss". We are told
they come from old air compressor tanks and kerosene lamps. The
posts on which fans and lights are mounted were conjured out of old four
poster beds. The essential signboard, hanging over the door in the traditional style, has an interesting story to tell. Teresa's husband designed it; his father, an enthusiastic supporter of the project and a Swiss then holidaying in Thailand, engraved the signboard hangers Edelweiss offers more than coffee and cold beer. The menu has been enlarged. You can get anything from pork ribs to nasi lemak, Malacca laksa lemak to spaghetti, soto, vegetarian sanwiches, curry vegetable , bratwurst sausages and macaroni; and inevitably there is a dish by that most versatile of husbands, called 'Urs Special'. And for an after dinner sweet try the apple strudle (they call it Apfel wahe) with Movenpick ice cream. # |
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Child
Protection Society Penang 118A Scotland Road |
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freedom Baba sayings Book review Discarded
wives Divide and rule Food guide A heritage
restaurant Insects seen
The jungle war Letter from Pulau Tikus Story |
| _____________________ The Penang File Issue 49 |